It has been way way too long! I miss my blogworld! Unfortunately, summer came-which meant long beach days and night time bonfires/wine! Meaning, no blogging! But I’m back! In between the beach & bonfires, I did keep up with my projects! So stay tuned for my upcoming blog posts on all the projects I finally completed!
I wanted to give you a tutorial on this beautiful Restoration Hardware table I replicated. I had a cute round table in the kitchen nook’ area, that I redid when we first moved in. It was a table left behind by the owners, so I just sanded the top/stained it and painted the base white. It was perfect for the first year, but now that our kitchen’s almost totally completely finished, I wanted to make a longer table so we could actually sit in there and be comfortable! I LOVE rustic wood tables. I could make them all day/everyday. I wish I could sell this table on my etsy account, but it would cost $1,000 to ship probably, due to the weight! ( So locals, I am making these to sell for pickup/dropoff)!
I bought all my wood from Lowes. I knew I wanted my table an exact size, due to the room I had to work with (not a lot).
- Kreg Jig
- Circular saw
- Miter Saw
- tape measurer
- Wood Filler (stainable)
- 2.5in kreg jig screws
- 2- 2×10 @ 12 feet long (can cut to dimensions at store for easier transport)
- 1- 2×10 @ 8ft long
- 2- 2×4 (studs)
- 5- 4×4 @ 8ft long
*I wanted my table to be 63 in long. I wanted to have the breadboards at the ends though, so I needed to get creative. I decided to use 2×8 at the end’s instead of the 2×10. However, these instructions are for 2×10 at the end as breadboards!
I wanted the width to be 28in. This is 3 2×10 for the width.
For the TOP of the table:
- 3 2×10 at 48 in
- 2 2×10 at 28 in
- 4 4×4 at 25in (both ends cut (mitered) at 10 degrees, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel-meaning cut them both in same direction) These are the legs that are going to stand at an angleThis is an example of “parallel 10 degree cuts” (this was very confusing to me so hope this picture helps)
- 2 4×4 at 19 in (both ends cut (mitered) at 10 degrees, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel-meaning don’t cut in the same direction) These are the beams that will go in between the legs
- 2 4×4 at 25in These are beams that the top of the legs are screwed into and the tabletop rests on this
Support Beam Cuts:
- 2 4×4 at 45 in
- 2 2×4 at 45in
- 2 4×4 at 26.5in (cut (miter) these ends at 45 degrees and the ends ARE parallel)
- After I made all my cuts, I started with the legs first. See Ana White’s instructions for detailed photos of how it should look -but my cuts are different lengths keep in mind. I used my kreg jig to make pocket holes and have secure sturdy joints. I used my 2.5in kreg jig screws to attach the legs.
- After attaching both set of legs, I laid the one set of legs down. I grabbed my bottom 45in beam, added pocket holes with my kreg jig and screwed the beam into the middle bottom beam of the legs. I then did the same to the other set of legs so that the beam was holding the two legs together. You want to do this with the top beam piece as well. Make sure the beam is centered on the center beams of the legs. HINT: Measure the beams of the legs and find the center and mark that. Place the 45in beam at that mark and it will be centered.
- Next I did the same as I did with the 4×4 45in beams, with the 2×4 45in beams. I did one on each side of the top 4×4 45in beam. *HINT: Use a level top make sure the height is the same on all 3 so that the top piece sits nice and even. (sorry no pic)
- Grab your 4×4 at 26.5in with the 45degree cuts at the end. These are going to be your cross pieces for underneath. They look SO great so don’t skip them. I had to play around to get them to look even and sit nicely. Easiest way is probably to mark your center on the bottom beam and measure from that center to where the top long part of the 45degree cut will sit on the top beam. Make sure this is 26.5in. IF it’s not, no biggie just cut to that length. Hope this makes sense. I had to make a few cuts. Put kreg jig holes on each end and screw in with your 2.5in kreg jig screws.
- Grab your 3 2×10‘ @ 48in. I put kreg jig holes in the center and ends of each piece. This is going to hold all 3 of them together.
- Grab your 2 2×10 @ 28in breadboards. Put kreg jig holes on each end on the TOP and BOTTOM of these pieces. This is so it holds more sturdy.
- After you attach all of these pieces together with 2.5in kreg jig screws you can use your wood filler to cover the top kreg jig holes that were on the 28in breadboards.
- I then used my favorite minwax special walnut stain and brushed it on the wood. I usually use cloth to stain, but because there are so many spaces to get to with this table, the brush was easier to get to those places. HINT: Remember to wipe away the excess stain with a clean cloth 5min after it’s been sitting there.
- Attach the top of the table to the legs from underneath using long 3 in screws.
- ENJOY AND TAKE A LOT OF PICTURES OF YOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW KITCHEN TABLE THAT COST ONLY $100 RATHER THAN $2300!
Stay Tuned for the bench I will be making to match!
Hope you enjoy and make one of these beautiful tables!